Collecting vintage watches is a growing hobby in most parts of the
western world. Men, particularly, are attracted by the romance and
novelty of having a micro-engine on their wrist as both a time-teller
and an image statement.
One of the most frustrating aspects of collecting vintage watches is
the number of fakes, frankenwatches and fraudsters one encounters in
pursuit of this noble, but increasingly costly, passion.
The comeback of the mechanical watch has drawn out all sorts of
insects from under their rocks. The pursuit of one's passion for old
timepieces will inevitably lead to numerous encounters with rogue
repairers who charge house prices for inferior work, linear descendants
of horse thieves who palm off fakes as the real thing, Doctor
Frankensteins who create sought-after models from parts of other
watches, the usual bevy of shonks, crooks and tricksters out to convince
the gullible and the unwary to swipe their well worn credit cards.
In a recent seven day survey and follow-up I completed on the listing
of vintage Omega Constellation watches on a major on-line trading site,
more than 50 percent of all listings were of watches that were
inauthentic in some way - that gives you some idea of what collectors
are up against.
Caveat Emptor, rarity and product knowledge steer the purchasing
behaviours of astute collectors in any collecting field and these three
principles are particularly important when purchasing vintage watches
on-line and through bricks and mortar dealers.
Frankenwatches describe the practice of taking parts from different
watches of the same calibre series and 'creating' a new or better
pedigree of movement. In some countries of Europe they are called
'Wedding' watches. This practice is especially prevalent in middle and
higher end timepieces that are most sought-after by collectors.
In tandem with the obvious deception of Frankenwatches, there are a
number of other intentional and inadvertent frauds that occur:
1. Housing a different movement in a genuine case or re-dialed model.
If you are interested in collecting a particlar brand of watch, get to
know the calibre numbers of movements that power particular models.
Calibre numbers are different to serial numbers and can best be
described as the engine type(similar to cars: eg. 2.5-litre DOHC V6
describing the engine in a current X Type Jaguar). Some calibres of a
particular brand are more collectible than others, so it pays to know
what's under the bonnet.
2. Using a similar movement series and replacing the part that has
the calibre number. This is prevalent in watch brands that have numerous
models and where the top line models fetch higher prices that the
cheaper models. Often you can tell a fraud of this type through
colouration contrasts or newness of the parts that contains the calibre
number.
3. Placing a high end dial and movement in the wrong case. Many of
the higher end vintage watches have case back numbers that can be
checked with serial numbers to see if they match.
4. Replacing worn hands and crowns with non-genuine hands and crowns
and claiming the watch is 100 percent authentic. A common problem with
many vintage models that reduces the value of the watch. Before buying,
build up a library of pictures of watches that you know are genuine and
match a prospective purchase against them. On-line forums are a great
way to acquire and swap pictures.
5. Badly executed dials and re-dials. Ask for super-sized pictures so
you can examine the quality of the printing and also the placement of
lettering. A bad re-dial will wipe as much as 30 percent off the value
of the watch. Again pictures and the help of other collectors is
invaluable in making sure you have an authentic watch.
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